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Culture in the Heart of Ladakh : Druk Padma Karpo School of Shey

  • Writer: dennis ho
    dennis ho
  • Dec 31, 2024
  • 3 min read

Updated: Jan 4



Rigzen Angmo of the Mahabodi School outside of Leh.  Ladakh, JK India 2000.
Rigzen Angmo of the Mahabodi School outside of Leh. Ladakh, JK India 2000.

The cham dance (Tibetan: འཆམ་) is a lively masked and costumed dance associated with Vajrayana Buddhism. The dance is accompanied by music played by monks using traditional Tibetan musical instruments. The dances often offer moral instruction relating to karunā (compassion) for sentient beings and are held to bring merit to all who perceive them. Chams are considered a form of meditation and an offering to the gods. Chams often depict incidents from the Jatakas of the sage Padmasambhava, the 9th century Nyingmapa teacher. Cham dance is considered to be an act of cleansing evil forces. Cham Dance is an elaborate masked and costumed dance performed on special occasions throughout Ladakh and other Vajrayana Buddhism civilisation in the Himalayas.


A Journey of Connection and Purpose


In the year 2000, my travels took me to Leh, where I found myself staying at a charming guesthouse amidst the breathtaking landscapes of Ladakh. While watching the Wimbledon games one afternoon, I met Michael Branigan—an intriguing character and photographer, unrelated to the famous Laura Branigan. Our shared interest in the games quickly led to an invitation from Michael to visit the Hemis Monastery the next day. Michael, a significant patron of the Drukpa Kargyud sect, was actively involved in supporting local initiatives, including the construction of the Druk Padma Karpo School in Shey. The following day, I eagerly accepted his invitation, drawn by the promise of experiencing the vibrant culture and spirituality of Ladakh. As I settled into the Cham dance performance that day, I was fortunate to sit beside Michael’s friend, a knowledgeable German lady with a deep passion for religious literature. Her stories painted a vivid picture of her first trip to Ladakh—a thrilling road trip with her boyfriend from Germany, driving a classic VW. After two decades, this trip was her homecoming, and her insights into the ritual's significance enriched my understanding of the local culture.


The school partially built on my last trip there in 2007.
The school partially built on my last trip there in 2007.


Following the mesmerizing Cham performance, we traveled to Shey with a young architect from London, tasked by Arup Associates London to oversee the development of the school project. Upon our arrival, Michael and the architect shared the meticulously crafted blueprints with me. Their vision was clear: to create a school that harmonized with the stunning landscape of Shey while incorporating sustainable practices and utilizing local raw materials.


It became evident that this project was not just a building initiative; it represented a profound commitment to preserving Ladakh's unique culture and civilization. The blend of architecture with respect for the environment and traditions spoke volumes about the importance of such initiatives in today’s world. Inspired by the dedication surrounding the school project, I returned to the guesthouse that night with a burning desire to contribute.


With HRH King Namgyal Of Ladakh at Hemis Monastery, 2000.
With HRH King Namgyal Of Ladakh at Hemis Monastery, 2000.

I envisioned a proposal to photograph the Children of Ladakh, capturing their spirit and stories through the lens. My plan was to sell framed prints of these photographs, with the proceeds going directly to the school’s foundation back in England. The response from the foundation in England was overwhelming. They embraced the idea, and the following winter, I received special permission to travel freely throughout Ladakh to photograph its vibrant children. This journey, ignited by a chance meeting and fueled by a shared purpose, not only deepened my connection to Ladakh but also underscored the power of culture and community in preserving the rich tapestry of life in this remarkable region.


Conclusion

This experience serves as a reminder of how travel can lead us to meaningful connections and inspire us to take action for one another and the world around us. The beauty of Ladakh is not just in its landscapes but in its people and their enduring spirit.



( Dennis Ho 1st. January 2025 )

 
 
 

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