The whale hunters of Lamalera

It’s all action stations when a whale is spotted. The whole village hears the cry, “ Baleo, Baleo”. This is usually shouted from high up on the hilltop, from where the locals scan the unforgiving Savu Sea for whale spouts. After the call goes out, there is a flurry of activity as the boats are quickly hauled out from their thatched roof shelters. It’s a community effort and the boats all set sail in unison. These traditional boats, called peledang, venture out to sea with 7 to 10 crew, including a helmsman, oarsmen and a couple of lama fa.

The history of whaling on Lembata Island is indeed a long one. Portuguese documents dating back to1643 include local whale hunting stories. Their ancestors are originally from Sulawesi. Local whaling has always been on a subsistence basis. The whale meat, blubber, skin, organs and oil (which is obtained from the blubber) cannot be traded for cash. They can only be exchanged for vegetables, fruit and rice. Once a whale ( Sperm Whale ) is killed, the meat is divided among the villagers, with the lama fa getting a largest cut of the stakes. One whale feeds a whole village. Because it is part of ancient beliefs and traditions, the whale hunt is exempt from the international whaling ban. Studies conducted by whaling authorities have indicated that the number of whales taken in Lamalera and Lamakera do not have a significant impact on the general whale population.

Extracted from an article by Stephanie Brookes.

A surreal view of the Ille Ape volcano at dawn from my room at Lewoleba, Lembata.

My first visit to Lamalera was in the 1990s, and I waited calmly at a coffee shop from 08:30 till 12:30 to finally jump onto the only transportation ( a truck operated by the Catholic church ) from Lewoleba to a drop off before this elusive village. On the truck full to the brim with vegetables, food, sacks of rice and a dozen local poultry, I was squeezed between two plump Lembata females who smiled sweetly each time the truck ran over some rather bumpy stones on the quite spartan road, throughout the six hours ride. I jumped off onto an isolated road after that, and was advised by the driver to take a two hours walk down the slopes of the land, pass a graveyard and continue till I see a small village with boats lined at the waterfront of the village. I stood on the road, took in the majestic panoramic view of the Savu Sea before me, tighten the frontal straps of my Marlboro Adventure Team rucksack then started the journey to Lamalera. The track was faint but it was very zenlike because I did not see anyone throughout the walk, which is hardly a surprise because neither did I see a single vehicle on the ride earlier too.

The only road from Lewoleba to Lamalera.

Whale hunting boats of Lamalera ( peledang ) a page from my journal.